Balinese Textiles by Brigitta Hauser-Schaublin, Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff,

By Brigitta Hauser-Schaublin, Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff, Urs Ramseyer

Originally released in 1991, in organization with the Museum der Kulturen, Basel.
This electronic version released 2012

In this superbly illustrated publication, 3 specialists research the historical past, construction and makes use of of textiles in Balinese society. Many superb items are provided, their uncooked fabrics and strategies of weaving and dyeing are defined, and the advanced symbolism and formality services of every are defined intimately.

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In the 7th century, however, we understand that an international community of over a thousand Buddhist monks was studying in the center of the powerful kingdom of Sriwijaya, based in the vicinity of modern-day Palembang in southern Sumatra. Buddhist doctrines were spread from here by monks and priests and eventually reached Bali; traces of ancient monasteries and hermitages are still to be seen on the island today, and it is in this period that the earliest Hindu-Buddhist kingdoms arose. The early rulers of Bali became acquainted by such means with Indian forms of state organization, and through the adoption of Indian beliefs in a divine god-king substantiated by a large body of epic literature-^-they clearly hoped to strengthen and consolidate their own power.

Two of these pegs (1 and 3) are fixed, whereas the third (2) can be moved according to the length of the warp. The warp threads are wound to and fro round the pegs from a revolving bobbin. As with any simple weaving device, the songket loom basically requires the arrangement of a lease, keeping even and odd warp threads in good order, and two sheds (lease bar shed and heddle rod shed) for the alternate lifting of the even and the odd thread sets. During warping, the lease is formed around the bamboo stick (4), the lease bar shed near the cane sliver (5), and the heddle rod shed and the heddle loops near the palm leaf (6).

12 (top): Programming the pattern heddle rods (nuduk). Karangasem, Sidemen. 13 (above): Young ksatria women weaving a checkered songket poleng with turnpeng border for an outer hip cloth. Karangasem, Sidemen. 14 (following pages): Princely songket outer hip cloth. Gold andsilver threads on silk. Buleleng, c. 1900. 142 x 116 cm. MEB IIc 19967. 4 8 CHAPTER THREE Extremely delicate songket textiles with tiny lozenges and stars almost completely covering the surface of a hip cloth, or arranged in multicolored strips on breast cloths, were once woven in the puri of Tabanan and Kerambitan, Stylistically, they recall more vividly than any other Balinese textiles the songket from Aceh and Palembang in Sumatra, Whereas in the past almost every member of a princely family knew how to weave songket, the tradition has now almost died out In Belayu, a small village near the town of Tabanan, however, the weaving of songket continues to flourish, Songket fabrics from Klungkung show close affinities with those of Karangasem.

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